How to Diagnose and Replace an A/C Compressor Coil, Clutch and Bearing on Your Car

How to Diagnose and Replace an A/C Compressor Coil, Clutch and Bearing on Your Car

Hey how is it going do it yourselfers, in
this video I am going to show you how you can diagnose and fix problems with your cars
AC compressor. Whether you are having problems with your AC compressor clutch, your AC compressor
pulley and bearing or your AC Compressor coil today I am going to show you how you can test
and replace all of them. Alright so first we will start with the AC compressor clutch
coil, alright so if you want to test your coil what you you’ll need first is a twelve
volt power supply. Next you want to remove the connector that goes to your compressor
and than if you got two wires you want to make sure which one is which on this one black
one is going to be ground and the white is going to be our voltage. Now if your AC compressor
only has one wire going to it instead of two that means that one wire is where you are
going to get your twelve volts. And that your compressor is grounded through the body of
the compressor through your engine so you want to get yourself some jumper cables and
attach to the compressor and the negative side of the battery if you are bench testing
this. And next when we make our connections we should see the AC compressor clutch engage.
Here is a closer shot, and now with this engaged when I turn the pulley the clutch turns with
the pulley. And when it’s disengaged only the pulley turns. Alright next lets cover
some clutch and bearing problems, so what you wan to do is to remove your belt, and
than play with your clutch make sure there is no excessive play or noise, it’s not lose
than want you want to do is to spin your pulley and listen to the bearing that’s inside there
if you hear any rumbling or any kind of noise or play from the pulley than that could indicate
a problem with the bearing that’s inside this pulley and that means you need to replace
it. Now the good news is if you need to replace the clutch the bearing, the pulley or the
coil for your AC compressor you don’t need to replace your AC compressor, you can just
purchase those parts separately and remove and replace them as I am about to show you.
And even better news is you don’t need to evacuate your AC system you can just leave
the lines attached to your AC compressor, but if you don’t have enough room in front
of your AC compressor to work on these you can just un mount your AC compressor which
is going to be usually attached to a bracket or your engine by four bolts and then just
slightly move it around with the AC lines still attached to it, as long as you don’t
pull on this really hard or you know pry against these lines you are not going to have a problem,
you can just undo these bolts and move this to a place where you have some room that you
can work on the your AC compressor clutch and pulley. Alright the first step is to remove
this bolt, now and impact gun would easily take this out, but usually you can remove
it with a solid ratchet and a socket as well if you do this. Basically put your ratchet
on here, and than hold it in with one finger, than get a hammer and give it good solid wack,
like that. You might have to do this a couple of times, but it usually comes loose after
a couple of tries, there. Alright next we are going to remove our clutch just by pulling
on it but be careful as you are pulling this out because there is going to be spacers between
your clutch and the shaft for you AC compressor that you don’t want to lose and as long as
you go nice and slow you can usually see the spacers and save them. And here is a look
at our clutch and I don’t know if you guys can tell but there is a spacers right in there.
There it is we just got one for this one, but sometimes there is a bunch of them and
they are a lot thinner than this so make sure you don’t lose them. Alright here is a look
at our compressor pulley, there is a bearing in side of this and this is the contact surface,
this is the contact surface where it engages our clutch. Alright now in order to remove
this pulley first we need to remove this snap ring. Alright so go ahead and grab your snap
ring pliers, and removing these is usually pretty straight forward, like this. Alright
next if you are luck you can just pull on this pulley and it will slide off the compressor
but generally speaking you are usually not going to be that lucky. So what you want to
do next is to grab yourself some penetrating fluid, and spray it all around here, next
if you have enough swing room you can get a rubber mallet and hit the back of the pulley,
and you know just hit it a couple of times turn it, hit it a couple of times turn it,
that way it comes out evenly and it doesn’t bind inside here. If that doesn’t work you
can just rent yourself or buy a two or three jaw puller, and this way you can put this
around the pulley, and you would screw this in and that’s going to pull this pulley and
remove it. But I believe, I can remove this pulley with just a rubber mallet. There we
go. Alright so here is a look at our pulley, and here is our bearing, see this guy this
is our compressor bearing that’s inside here, now if you have a bad bearing and need to
replace it, replacing this is very easy, you just get a socket, put it on top here on this
end, than you use a hammer to knock out this bearing and than when you get your new bearing
you put it on this end, but you are going to need another socket that’s the circumference
of the outer lip of the bearing, that way you are pressing on the outer lip of the bearing
when you are hammering it. Cause if you press on the inner lip or on the center piece, you
could damage the bearing so you need a socket that’s exactly the circumference of the outer
lip of the bearing, and than you can just hammer that in and it usually goes in without
much fuss at all, and that’s pretty much it. Also if the auto parts store can not find
you a bearing for whatever reason for your air compressor, you can just go try to find
one off the numbers that are on these bearings. Alright and here is a look at our stator or
coil for our ac compressor clutch and there you can see the two wires that go to it from
this connector. And this is basically held in by another snap ring that’s inside here.
Alright once again with everything out and about it’s going to be easier to show you
how this works again, so again the coil is going to be inside your pulley, it’s going
to ride very close to the pulley without touching it ok so this pulley is sitting in like this
all the way in I am not going to be able to get it all the way in right now but you guys
get the picture that coil is inside here and than when that becomes activated it creats
a magnetic field that pulls on your clutch which is riding out here, now your clutch
is what’s connected to the shaft of your air compressor and that’s the one that turns with
the shaft, so when this becomes activated it pulls on this clutch and connects it to
your pulley than these two turn together and than therefore turn the shaft that’s inside
your ac compressor. Alright now before we remove our coil we are going to disconnect
this connector from it’s bracket, usually takes some fidaling around. So again we grab
our snap ring pliers, and get it out of there, here we go. Now we should be able to pull
this out easily, there. Now putting everything back together should be just the reversal
of removal, but you want to pay special attention to a couple of things. On this coil for example
if you get a new one make sure you line this pin up with this hole here otherwise this
is not going to go in even, so when you get the new one make sure its sitting nice and
flat against the compressor and that pin is lined up with that hole. Also if there is
any sign of rust or corrosion on any of these snap rings make sure you replace it, you don’t
want these to brake or come loose sometime in the futures. Also at the end when it’s
time to install this bolt that attaches your clutch to your compressor, make sure you use
some blue thread locker on this, and you can tighten it using the hammer method but make
sure you do it a couple of times and make sure it’s nice and tight when you put it on
the compressor. And last but not least don’t forget the little spacer that goes inside
your clutch, now this spacer again creates a specific amount of space between your clutch
and the pulley and it’s important to check that space after you call this repair finished,
now this video was more of a general video on how your compressor works and how you can
diagnose problems with all the different components but if you want a more detailed more specific
video on how you can diagnose problems and replace the clutch and the bearing and the
pulley, I will put a link to a video I did about a year and a half ago on this side of
the screen, I’ll also put some other links to some other related video’s that you might
find interesting and I recommend you check them out but if you liked this video please
don’t forget to give it a thumbs up, subscribe if you want to see more like it and I’ll see
you next time. Thanks for watching.

100 thoughts on “How to Diagnose and Replace an A/C Compressor Coil, Clutch and Bearing on Your Car

  • man, in this morning my ac compressor start to make flames and smoke, only when i use ac or heating, i can replace it or i can rebuild ? dont have any weird noise ! cheers

  • Very nice video, but I noticed something that is missing on how to remove the clutch easily. We know that when it is rusted already, it is very hard to remove. Im also a technician. I will share my short video, not a good quality as im using only a mobile phone. Anyway, maybe this can help as well.

    Its not spoken in english but important is the video.

  • dear my friend,
    let me inform you that in my car have a compressor problem too.
    Kia Magentis 2.0 CDI disel engine 2006 years car.
    the clutch engage loosen, how I can find correct parts for my compressor which installed on my car?
    I am living in Azerbaijan, and I will order part through the online shops. which one are you recommend?

  • Very informative video. One thing – what is most common reason for malfunction of AC compressor clutch? I mean, what part fails and compressor stop engaging and working? Is it burnt coil? Or worn clutch so it does not have enough contact (it slips)? Or is it bearing? Cheers!

  • Thanks, I had a decent idea of how this setup worked, but your teardown let me see how it all fits together. Thanks

  • I have the same style ac clutch on my tacoma, and i can not for the life get the hub off the shaft.

  • Hello I have a 2011 Ford Focus SES and the compressor make a whining noise and does not engage all the way. It has Freon but does not want to engage to cool. I noticed some stuff coming out of the clutch like black hairs or fibers coming out of it. It turn the compressor and clutch but it remains that it spins and has no grip could it be the clutch worn out?

  • Hey everyone if you want an awesome business you ever buy a rebuilt AC compressor well this is how they rebuild them also remember you get a 90 day warranty because as you can tell they don't go in depth but 169.00 resale to 359.00 to put 45.00 of parts into you all wonder why do I say this. Simple because mechanics don't pray on customers. People are actually not intelligent 😂. Until they get the bill.
    If you going to bother to do all this a new GM compressor from AC Delco know the compressor new is $196.00 if you know how to shop which is even funnier because you likely don't but your mechanic does

  • Ok i need some advice ……
    I have a 03 chevy venture LS 3.5 duel a/c ……..ok i have changed to a new compressor because it was cool and then stop cooling for a while then cool again, after having some friends check it out we bought a new compressor and replaced 2 expansion valves also the accumulator on the condenser along with the high side pressure switch…….charging the system step by step to to ensure proper steps compressor dose not seem to clutch on and off when freeon is being added , it will take it in but very very slow also low side pressure climbs and high side didn't get passed 50 psi i lost on what to check or do next

  • I went to the mechanic just now and he said I need to replace the whole compressor just by looking with a flash light, he said the compressor is jammed, what am I supposed to do?

  • Thank you so much for this video. With your help I was able to fix the AC of my gfs car with just 50€ of parts (coil failed). Mechanic couldn't find the problem and wanted to change the whole compressor for 500€

    You saved me a lot of mones

  • There YouTube are you happy? I finally watched this video, so you can stop putting it in my suggested list.

  • Thanks for the video. Wish I would have thought about looking something up before my brother ruined a compressor we were using for parts.

  • 1 million thanks for this video because I watched bunch of video they talked about coil, clutch, bearings but they never said if the compressor comes completely with all together but for me I assumed the clutch is not engaged all I am going to do is to change the compressor. Now I also understand when they say " rebuilt compressor". Again I thank you. Best video.!

  • why doesn't anyone mention the thin clutch ceramic on contact!like once its gone .you can replace everything but if that's worn then you have metal to metal wear and will destroy outer clutch.wish someone had more details on that.

  • Great video and job "if" one can manage the snap rings. You'll notice in the video that the snap ring priers barely open the snap ring wide enough and only when the ring twists does it come off. So the ring "twists" when fully open but it needs to be flat to install. I could not get enough force by hand to flatten and install.

  • May I please ask if my compressor engages when I turn it on and does not engage another time I turn it on and if my car mechanic (who replaced with the new one) said probably bad connectors, might that be true? Can I test it with battery charger if I don’t have a battery?

  • cuando el el cloch del compresor ya no funsiona y contiene sufisiente frion que ay que aser primero para quitar el compresor del aire acondisionado

  • My clutch is non existing, the bolt must have came loose and fallen off. I am hoping I can just bolt a new one on.

  • I like that you did all of this outside of the car making it easy to see, instead of dark camera angles and poor lighting like other videos.

  • Question, hopefully someone can advise; when I turn on my AC there is a high-is pitched sound from the engine, followed by a scent of burning rubber. Also the battery light for the ‘Alternator not charging’ comes on almost immediately. The air cons was working full ball, up until the issue started to occur. I only noticed a slight rattle for the engine which I thought was normal. So to sum up the AC clutch works and engages the AC pulley , but then puts enough strain on the timing belt to create a dip in alternator level and a slight small of rubber. Which component is it likely to be? I don’t want to get ripped off with replacing the whole AC compressor if not needed. Thanks

  • I don't know what's going on I loosened the screw but this plate doesn't come out at all, there's no way for me to have access to the washer for me to release the pulley to change the bearing, in your video after you loosened the screw the plate came out easy on your hand, my here tried with some spatulas and it does not come out at all

  • Hello i replaced coil pulley clutch coil it runs 30 minutes then it clutch not engaging when i touch the pully its hot i check fuse/relay no problem only ac fan engages

  • In all my years of being a mechanic (30 years ) a lot of times it's just easier to go get a reman one or brand new, you rebuild the compressor clutch and then something else goes wrong with the compressor. (Just Murphy's law)

  • Hello bady good morning..the ac compressor need to have some oil inside??i want to replace the ac compressor to my brother car and i get one used but it is empty inside.thats is okey?

  • Whe i tested the ac compressor whit a battery it makes a sound like the ac clutch is good bit i didnt see if the ac clutchit moves a little..what hapoen if the ac clutch only make the noise but dont move??

  • At 0:54 You connected a green clip to the negative connection. Did you need to do that while you used another wire coming from the negative battery connection to serve as ground, or was the green wire sufficient? Would the test not be valid if you did not connect the green wire but just connected another wire to a metal part to serve as ground?

  • Why would you remove the AC compressor just to change the clutch and bearing. if you're removing it just put a whole new pump on. I've changed the clutch and bearing before without having to remove the pump. Lots of cars have other issues like if the fans don't turn on or if there is a blown fuse or a blown relay…. for what it cost in labor today it's cheaper just to replace the pump unless you can change the bearing and coil yourself… Good informative vid though

  • Sir, thank you for doing these types of videos. These really help guys like me to learn and do work on my vehicles. Thanks and may God Bless you !

  • 2001 Corolla has a pulley SCRAPING sound that goes away with the Air Conditioner turned ON. I guess that's the clutch is bad? Thanks.

  • Thanks for the informative videos. I just put a new compressor and it works great. The freon level shows just in the green, is that good enough or should I put in enough to bring it to the center of the green zone on the gauge?

  • Your videos are first-class – clear sound and video, well explained and no steps skipped – a boon for DIYers! Great work!

    I have a 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2 Td5 with original factory-fitted AC compressor (will check but pretty sure it's a Denso). Not keen on taking to an AC specialist at the moment as they'll probably just install a new compressor and charge me c.$2500 – money I don't have! R134a gas fully charged, but clutch not engaging and blowing warm air now, so suspecting the coil is faulty so will try and fix it myself without de-gassing and removing the compressor from the vehicle. Might be better off replacing the coil, clutch, pulley and bearing for good measure if I can find them new online?

    What about the receiver/drier – should that be replaced? Drier would contain desiccant (silica gel?) and I assume over the years the desiccant would become saturated and need replacing so that any moisture (H2O) can continue to be removed from the system? Some say the receiver/drier should be a serviced item? Problem is, replacing would require evacuating the system of R134a and then re-charging again – don't like that idea, and not licenced (Aust degas and recharge by a licensed technician only) or set-up to do that!

  • I was told a lot of people pay for a new compressor installation when it is only the coil that has failed (and sometimes the clutch). Is that correct?

  • I'm sorry my friend you don't use a ratchet and hit with anything like a hammer because you gonna ruin the clutch in it… I was a Grease monkey once.

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