I Bought the Most Hated Car on the Internet (and made $1000)

I Bought the Most Hated Car on the Internet (and made $1000)


Hey guys! ChrisFix here, and today I’m
gonna show you how to replace a hybrid battery in a Toyota Prius. And I’m gonna be showing you how to do
this using common tools. Check this out, we don’t have many tools at
all. That’s all you need to replace a hybrid
battery. I’m going to also show you how to find
yourself a really good quality hybrid battery That way, after you’re done with watching
this video, you’ll have everything that you need to
know on replacing the hybrid battery. You’ll be able to do it yourself which is
gonna save you a ton of money, and I’m gonna show you what the dealer
quoted me, and you’ll be able to get your car back on
the road so you can drive it. Now I never thought in a million years I’d be
Prius owner, but it was hard to resist. I got this car for $1500. That’s right. $1500, and it’s worth… and it’s in great shape! It has newer tires, the body is in good shape, the paint shines, and check out this interior! Now, this is a 2007 with 168K miles and I just take a look this interior, it is
spotless. You can tell the previous owner took real
good care of this car, which is what you want to see when you’re
buying a used car. So how did I get this car for $1500 instead
of $4000? Well let me show you by starting the
engine. And that triangle right there is something
no Prius owner wants to see along with those other check engine lights. That is telling me there is something wrong
with the car and we need to check it out. And to do that, we’re going to plug an OBD-
II scanner right into the computer. And the OBD-II port is right here under the
dash, so just plug it right in. Then we can hit “Read codes,” let it scan,
and check it out. So we have a P0A80 code, which is saying
“Replace Hybrid Battery Pack.” So it’s letting us know that our hybrid
battery pack is probably bad. So that’s how I got this car for so cheap; it
needs a new hybrid battery. And I did go to the dealer to get a quote. Check this out, $4000 to replace a hybrid
battery. That is expensive, that basically totals out
this car. So I’m going to be showing you how to do
this for a fraction of the cost! With that said, I have a rebuilt battery pack from Electron Automotive out in Orange
County, CA. They sent me this out, it’s a 3-year
warrantied battery pack, so they guarantee it for 3 years, but they told me that it
would probably last more like 6 years. And this shipped to my door and cost
$1500. The car costs $1500, so in total, we have
$3000 here. I already have a buyer for $4000 once I
swap this out, he said he’ll buy it. So that’s a quick $1000 profit, plus I get to
show you guys how to replace a battery pack. That should help tons of hybrid owners. Now I do recommend that you don’t
replace one or two cells. Buy the whole battery back because these
cells are matched and balanced to each other so you get
good life. That’s why they’re labeled from 1 to 28. Do it once, do it right. We’re installing a nice reliable battery pack
for the next owner. He’s going to love it! If that’s too expensive for you, they do have
cheaper options. I’ll just link their information in the
description below if you’re a hybrid owner. Go check them out. And with that said, I do want to thank
Electron Automotive for supporting the video and sending me out this battery
pack. Chris the owner was super friendly when I
talked to him. He gave me a bunch of tips and tricks, and
the most important thing is, he backs his product 100%. That’s the type of person you want to do
business with. So with that said, let’s get started, and here are all the tools that you need. Now normally, I’m an advocate of using
basic hand tools. Everybody has them, that’s why I try to use
them. But in this situation, you’re saving so much
money. Trust me, go buy yourself a nice power tool,
I’ll link this one in the description. It’s going to save you an incredible amount
of time when doing this job. Otherwise, all you need is an extension, 8, 10, 12, and 14-millimeter sockets, we have a small flathead screwdriver, Definitely pick up a panel clip pliers, I’ll also
link this in the description. It’s going to save you from that frustration
of breaking the plastic panel clips. And we also have a torque wrench to get all
the bolts tightened to the right spec. So that’s all you need to replace the hybrid
battery. You don’t need any special tools. So let’s go get started. Now to get access to the hybrid battery,
we’re going to go through the trunk, and the battery itself is located right behind
the rear seats, right about here. Now the first thing we want to do is make
sure that we make this battery safe to work on, and to do that, we have to remove the
safety plug which can be found under the carpeting over here. So to do that, start by removing the trunk
floor mat, pop out the privacy cover, then we can remove the trunk floor which
covers the storage bin and spare tire tools. Remove the driver side bin cover, and then the large storage bin can come
out. And finally, remove the 12-volt battery
cover. And check it out, we can see the hybrid
battery already, that’s this right here. So now we want to go in this corner and
the orange-colored safety plug is right here. All you have to do, lift the plug handle up and then fold it down, and then pull the
plug out. So with that removed, we essentially cut
the voltage of the hybrid battery in half, making it a lot safer to work on. Now, let’s disconnect the normal 12-volt
car battery so this battery won’t go dead while we have
the doors open working on the car. And do that by disconnecting the ground
cable and tucking it out of the way so it doesn’t
touch any bare metal. Now we just need to remove the plastic
trim piece which has four tabs holding it in. So just give it a good pull upwards and pop
it out. And don’t worry, you can give this a real
good yank without breaking it. And then we can push the seats down so
they’re out of the way. Good, and we’re almost there, the main
goal is to get under here to get to the battery. In order to do that, we need to remove this
cover which is held in by a couple of bolts, then we’re going to remove this side cover, and then we’re going to remove this side
cover, we’re going to move the seats forward, and
that will give us access to our battery. So remove the two chrome tie-down bolts and then pop this cover off the battery. Now I don’t know if you can tell, but I can
definitely tell by hearing it. This clip here, and that clip right there
broke. That clip is good. These are just plastic clips that hold this
down. Not a big deal, you can buy a kit like this. Very inexpensive, and I’ll link it in the
description. And then you’ll have plenty of extra clips
just in case you break any. So next, we can remove the velcro from the
seatback. And the last thing holding this in, in each
corner there’s a plastic clip that needs to get popped out. Now this is where these panel clip pliers
are going to come in handy so we don’t break those plastic clips. So get the pliers under the clip and pop it
out. Just like that. Now we can move over to the other side. And let’s pop that clip out as well. Good, now this should be all disconnected
and we can remove it, giving us access to the battery. Now we don’t have complete access, we
still need to remove that side, and this side trim panel. So let’s go do that. Start by unscrewing the nut that holds the
bin in place. Next, we can remove the small black bolt
here, and then we can remove the chrome tie-
down bolt, and don’t forget about the plastic tab down
here. Just grab you panel clip pliers and pop this
out. Good. And then, we can remove the long silver
bolt here. And the last thing we need to undo is this
trim piece right here, but it’s easier to get from the outside, so
let’s go around, and open the door to get to the trim piece. The trick to this is to get your hand under
the trim piece and pull upwards. As you do that, get your other hand and pull
the trim out and away to remove it from the panel. Now we can remove the entire panel. There’s two clips holding it in, so get your
hand back there and pop those clips out. Now we can carefully unclip the rest of this
panel. And don’t remove this all the way because
we still have this light attached. You don’t want to rip out the wires. So pop the light out so you can remove the
panel and just keep that light dangling there. Alright, so with this trim piece removed,
you can see we have access to all the bolts that are holding in this side of the battery. Now we just need to get the trim piece
removed from the other side. It’s the same exact process. Remove the chrome tie-down bolt, remove the short black bolt, and remove the long silver bolt. Then pull the side trim piece up and out and don’t forget to pop this panel clip out. Now we can start at the back and carefully
pop the two clips out by hand. And then wiggle the panel the rest of the
way out. And with that panel out, we are so close to
removing this battery. The last thing we need to do is remove the
four 14-mm bolts holding the back seats in place. These are the only 14-mm bolts in this
entire job. Then, slide the seat forward which gives us
plenty of access to the front of the battery. So after seeing all these panels and nuts
and bolts coming off this car, you guys are probably concerned on how to keep
them organized so you know where to put them when you have to install them. Well, this is exactly what I do, just like we
did all the interior pieces, I do the same thing with my nuts and
bolts; I lay them out so that you can see exactly where they
go, this is the driver side. This side’s the passenger side. You can use something like a storage tray
like this, or you can use baggies as well, whatever works for you, take pictures. It’s a lot easier to do this when you’re
actually doing this yourself and not watching a video. It’s a lot easier to remember where
everything goes. I’m also going to provide you guys a link
in the description to a service manual so that you guys could easily look it up in
the service manual, see what the torque specs are, see what bolts you need to
remove in what order. Even though we have this video, having
something on paper in hand also helps. So there’s a lot of resources for you here,
that way this becomes an easy job. There’s nothing to it, so let’s get back to
work. And finally, now we’re able to remove the
battery. Now the battery’s held in by a bracket on
this side, and there’s a bracket underneath this
cooling duct here. So let’s start on this side and remove the
cooling duct. Pop out the two plastic clips holding the
duct in, and unclip the relay just by pulling it off. Finally, pull the air duct off the fan like so. And with that air duct removed, there is
something very important I want to mention, and that is cleaning out this fan. So a lot of people skip this step when
they’re replacing their hybrid battery, but it’s very, very important for the long
life of the battery and reliability of the battery that your fan isn’t gummed up
with a bunch of dust, and it’s a common problem on these. So let’s remove this duct to inspect the fan. So in order to remove this, there’s 3 clips. All you need to do is grab a small
screwdriver like this, press the center of each clip in, and then this will pull right off. And I’m glad we checked this out because
look at this. Those fan blades are caked up with dust,
so we’re definitely not getting maximum cooling. So real quick, let’s remove the fan to clean
it by removing these 3 bolts. With the fan loose, turn it around and
push the wiring harness clip to remove it. And then disconnect the electrical
connector from the fan motor. Now you can try cleaning the fan with a
pipe cleaner and do each individual blade like this. And that will work, I mean check out all
this lint that we just removed. But it’s way easier to unscrew the five
screws holding the cover on, Then we can separate the cover and have
direct access to the fan. And then blast the fan blades with some
compressed air to remove all the lint. Finish it off by grabbing some Soapy
Wooder and spraying it down, and then drying it off with a towel. And that is how you remove all the dust
and all the lint from those fan blades. It’s like brand new! So let’s get those five screws back in the
fan and get it together so we can reinstall it. And just so you know, I want to show you
the quote again real quick. The dealer charges $350 for what we just
did to clean the fan. So it’s totally worth it to spend the extra
10-15 minutes to clean your own fan. Saved you $350, plus your new fan is
clean so it’ll keep that new battery nice and cool. So let’s get this installed, and first, make
sure we plug in our connector. And then we’ll get this in place. Now we can tighten down the 3 bolts
holding the fan in, mount the wiring harness to the fan
support bracket, and then reinstall the intake duct and
snap each plastic retaining clip into place. Now, finally, we can remove our battery! There’s two brackets holding it in, there’s
a bracket here with 7 bolts, and there’s a bracket here with 7 bolts,
and then we’ll disconnect a couple of wires. So let’s go over here. and remove the bracket on the passenger
side by unscrewing the seven 12-mm bolts. And I think now you’re starting to see why
an impact gun is a worthwhile investment for this job with all of these bolts. And with this last bolt removed, now we
can remove the bracket. Good, with that bracket removed (I put the
bracket and all the bolts right off to the side here so we don’t lose anything), now,
let’s go and remove the other bracket. This bracket also has seven 12-mm bolts
holding it in. And once we get all of these removed… we can remove the bracket. And don’t forget to keep the bolts
together with the bracket. Now we need to take this cover off so we
can get to these wires here and disconnect them so we can pull the entire
battery out. So remove the two nuts over the wires, as well as the two bolts on top of the
cover. And the last bolt holding this cover in is
on the back side of this right down there. So let’s remove that bolt… …and then remove the cover. And just like what we’ve been doing, you
want to keep all the nuts and bolts together with the piece that they came off
of, so when we go and reinstall this, we
remember where everything goes. Now here’s the computer for the battery, and the two wires that power the electric
motor. We need to remove those two wires and
we need to disconnect a couple of wires back here to free the battery up. So disconnect these wires by pressing the
tab on the side and pulling them out. Then remove the nuts holding the two
main wires in and pull the wires up and away. And I’ll put the nuts back on the studs so I
don’t forget where they go. So with all our wires disconnected from
this side, the last thing we need to do is go to this side. We have a battery vent tube here which
needs to be disconnected, and then we have this lower ducting that
needs to be removed. So pop the clip out, and unscrew the bolt holding the air duct
down. And now we can move this out of the way. And finally, we can remove the battery. There’s two bolts on this side. Here, and over here. Good. And then there’s three bolts on the other
side. Here, here, and here. Now this battery is heavy, so lift it one
side at a time, and pull it towards the back of the car. Then carefully lift it up, and find a place to put the battery so we
can work on it. Alright, and we removed the battery from
the Prius! Now this next part’s going to be fun, it’s
really cool. What we’re going to do is we’re going to
take this hard metal case off and that’s going to give us access to the battery
cells. So we’re going to remove all those old
battery cells and put in our new ones. Then we’ll put the case back on, we’ll take
our battery, put it back in the Prius, and that’s it. Now while it’s that simple to do, there are
going to be a ton of nuts and bolts that we’re going to be removing. So what I like to do is stay organized,
that’s the key to making this a really simple job; organization. So the first thing we need to remove are
the 8 case bolts. So let’s first remove this rubber piece
down here which prevents the sharp edges from cutting you, and next, we can remove the five 10-mm
bolts on this side of the case. And this last bolt allows us to remove the
end piece here. Then there’s 3 fasteners on the other side
of the case that have to be removed and that allows us to remove the case. So, pretty cool right? This is what a hybrid
battery looks like. It’s a bunch of cells wired in series that
power the electric motor in your hybrid car. So next, we want to remove these black
bus bar covers. And that gives us access to all the bus
bar nuts on this side which we need to remove. And if you’ll look closely, you’ll notice all
the nuts are corroded, and it’s typical to see some corrosion, so it’s not a big deal. I’ll show you how to quickly clean that up. So now remove all 28 bus bar nuts on this
side, and you can see how having power tools
makes this a lot faster! And finally, we can pull off the bus bars
from the battery. And now with all our bus bars removed,
our total voltage at this battery is now around 8 volts, so it’s even safer to work
on. Now we want to do the same exact thing
we did on this side on the other side. So remove the bus bar covers, and remove all the bus bar nuts on this
side. And finally, pull the bus bars off the
battery. Good, now all our bus bars are completely
removed. I have them off to the side, out of the way
so that we can remove our battery pack. Now, our bus bar nuts were pretty
corroded! So a little trick is just get a little bit of
white vinegar, and we’re going to take these corroded
nuts and let them sit in that vinegar, which will remove the corrosion as we
swap out our battery packs. Next, we need to remove these vent
tubes, so grab each one and give it a good yank upwards to pop it off each
battery cell. And then we have a temperature sensor
at the top, this green wire that goes right there. So you want to get your flathead
screwdriver, get underneath the sensor, and just pry it up and give it a wiggle until
it pops out. Alright, so with that sensor removed, we
can move this off to the side, there’s an air dam right here that needs
to be popped out like so, and then there’s two nuts holding this in. We have a nut right there that needs to be
removed, and then on the opposite corner, we have
a nut right there. And with those nuts removed, carefully flip
the battery over. Beautiful, and the reason why we have to
flip this over is because each battery is actually bolted in, you can see the set of
bolts on this side, and you can see the set of bolts on that
side. So the battery’s held into the case with all
those bolts. That means we have to remove each bolt. And again, a power tool makes this a lot
quicker! OK, now we can remove the bottom of the
case, but not all the way because we still need to remove these temperature
sensors. Just use a flathead screwdriver to pry
them off. And once you remove the sensors, pop the
back of the air dam off and now we can remove the case from the
battery pack. So let’s flip this battery block over, and we need to move these compression
blocks. Now there’s two sides you can go from. Notice that this side has a black piece right
here, we want to leave that side, and we’re going to unbolt it from this side. Now before we take this compression
block off and remove the battery cells, I want you guys to notice real quick right
here is a positive, so I’m going to mark that down as a positive. So we remember we have to put a positive
right here. And then if we go all the way down right there in this corner is a negative. You want to make sure it’s in that
orientation when you put the new batteries in. And now we can go and remove the battery
cells. So get something under the battery to
elevate it, then remove the four bolts holding the
compression block on. And finally, slide all the old bad battery
cells out so we can install the new ones. Alright, and we are almost done, so out
with our old battery, and in with our new one. Now the new battery we’re about to install
does have a label here. It says “Put this side closest to the
computer.” That’s number 1, so we’re going to install
this one first, and then we just follow, it’s labeled all the
way to 28. You want to put them in order, that’s going
to give us long battery life and good performance. They actually match and balance each of
these batteries to each other using a computer algorithm and that’s how they
can warranty it for so long. So keep them in order, and let’s get them
installed. Now, when handling the battery packs, it’s
very important that you don’t drop them or bang them around by mistake, because
hey can crack and they can get damaged. It’s also important that you line them up. So if they’re like this, that’s no good, you
want to make sure the ends are flush. They kind of fit together like legos, you’ll
feel them kind of click in like that. And you can see it leaves an air gap right
there which allows air to flow through it and keep these batteries cool. So it’s very important that you line the
edges up as you install the battery cells so that they’re flush and even with each
other, so that they fit together properly. and then we can get the compression
block hand tightened on the end. Alright, before we tighten down these
compression blocks, we just want to make sure that we have our positive here, and
we do, and our negative here, and we do. We also want to make sure it goes from
positive, negative, positive, negative, all the way down, or in this case, we want to make sure our
numbers are in order. And the last thing we want to make sure is
that our compression block here lines up with the edge of our battery, and that our
batteries are all even. They should be completely straight all the
way down. None of them should be sticking out at all. Just be nice and even all the way down,
and that looks good. So now we can torque down the
compression block bolts to 24 ft-lbs. And then remove the wood block and flip
the battery upside down so we can reinstall the bottom of the case. And a little trick with these temperature
sensors, first, let’s get this air dam in place on the
end here. Make sure it snaps in, good. Since these temperature sensors trigger
the fan to go on to cool the battery down, it’s a good idea to put the sensors more
towards the middle of the battery where it gets the hottest. So instead of having the sensors spread
out along the entire battery like they were, put the sensors more towards the middle
here, so we’re going to put that one there, we can put that one there, and we can put this one here. Now since the sensors are more towards
the middle, the fan will kick on earlier and keep this battery cooler, giving it a longer
life and better performance. Now let’s get the case on so it fits over the
battery. And make sure the bolt holes on both sides
line up so we can screw in our bottom battery cell bolts. It’s important we start each bolt by hand so
we avoid cross-threading them and snapping a bolt. And don’t ask me how I know that. And once all 28 bolts are in, we can torque
each one down to 60 in-lbs. Make sure you’re tightening these to in-lbs
and not ft-lbs. Good, now we can flip the battery over, and torque down the two nuts that go to
the corners of the block. These nuts get torqued down to 90 in-lbs. Good. And now we can install the vent tubes. The holes on the tubes connect to the vent
protruding off the battery. Snap these on all the way so if any gases
do escape from the battery, it gets vented outside the car. Good. Now we can get the air dam back in
place, and then get the sensor wire, run it to the
mounting spot, and push it in so that it clicks in place. Alright, now the last thing that we need to
do before we put our case on is get our bus bars connected. But before we connect the bus bars, these
are all corroded, so in the kit, it comes with brand new bus
bars to swap in place of all of these. Now a good clean bus bar is very
important which is why they’re included in the kits. It connects each battery to each other in
series. So it’s important that we swap these out. And to do that, get a flathead screwdriver
and pry it out like that. Then, press in the new bus bar until it
snaps in. Again, pop it out with a flathead
screwdriver, and then press in the new one. So you’re going to want to swap out all the
old bus bars with brand new ones. I already did this entire side. Now, we’re going to do the other side. And the other side is very similar, the only
difference… is there’s an extra tab here that needs to
get pried out. Then you can pry out the old bus bar, then
we can push the new bus bar in, and then the extra tab. Alright, now with all the old bus bars
removed and the new ones installed, we can mount the bus bars onto the
battery. And then tighten down our bus bar nuts,
which have been soaking in vinegar to remove the corrosion. So let’s drain this and dry the nuts
thoroughly. You don’t want any moisture on here. And look how good these came out! That’s a great little trick to remove
corrosion. Now we want to tighten down each bus bar
nut to 60 in-lbs. Then, snap in the plastic bus bar covers. Good. And with this side done, now let’s go to the
other side. Put the bus bars on the battery, then, torque each one down to 60 in-lbs, put the bus bar covers on so they snap in
place, and finally, we can put the case back on
over the battery. Torque down the four bolts on this side to
71 in-lbs. And can’t forget about our sharp edge
protector, put that back on. Then we can put the side cover on, and torque that bolt down to 71 in-lbs, and finally, there are three fasteners on the
back that get torqued down to 71 in-lbs. Alright, so we installed all the nuts and
bolts. Our case is ready to go back into the car! So let’s get it in there! And this battery weighs over 80 lbs, so it
has some weight to it. So be careful when you get it back in
place in the car. Now we want to install the five bolts that
mount this to the car. There’s two on this side that get torqued
down to 14 ft-lbs. And then the last three are on this side and
get torqued down to 14 ft-lbs as well. And with the battery secured to the car,
we’re coming up to the most exciting part. We need to connect our electric so that
we can start up our car and make sure the battery works. If the car starts, that means the battery’s
installed correctly, and we’re good to go to install all the rest of the interior pieces. So let’s go and connect our electrics. First, we need to connect the 3 harnesses
here, and make sure each one clicks which lets you know it’s pushed in all the
way. Then we need to connect the two high
voltage wires to the relays. And tighten down the two nuts holding
the wires in to 50 in-lbs. Alright, and one last thing we need to do
is install the safety plug. Push it in, swing the handle up, and then
push it down to lock it in. Also, we can’t forget we need to reconnect
the 12-volt battery. So tighten the bolt to the chassis. Alright, and our dome light is on, and let’s
go see if we did it! OK, moment of truth, make sure that you
have your key with you so the car will start up. We’re going to hit this once… OK, that’s a good sign. We’re going to take our foot off the brake
and press on the gas… That should start the gas engine, and it
did, and check it out! The engine is charging up the battery. I don’t see any check engine lights, no
dashboard lights, no triangle anymore. That is awesome, I’m going to shut her
off, and we’re going to go back and get everything back together. Alright, and we fixed the Prius! The battery’s good to go, she started right
up, and we saw the battery start charging right away which is awesome, the new
owner is going to love this. We put a nice high-quality battery in here,
it’s going to last for years to come. Now we need to get the interior together. So let’s remove the safety plug so it’s safe
to work around the hybrid battery. I’m going to keep our 12-volt battery
plugged in, because we’re going to get the interior in real quickly, so we don’t have to
worry about the battery dying. And putting the interior in is the exact
opposite of the way we removed it. So let me give you a quick overview. First, we’re going to get the cover on the
battery computer, so let’s install the junction terminal, where the open end
faces the front of the car. Then we can put the cover on and tighten
down the 5 fasteners to 66 in-lbs to hold the cover in place. Now let’s install the battery support
bracket on this side. So get it in place, and there are 7 bolts
that need to get torqued down to 21 ft-lbs. So get each of those bolts torqued down. Good, and now let’s go to the other side of
the battery. Here we need to get the lower air duct
connected to the bottom of the battery. And push the plastic clip in as well as
tighten the bolt down to 35 in-lbs. to hold the duct in place. Next, let’s install the vent tube which
vents the battery outside the car. And then let’s get the support bracket in
place and torque down the 7 bolts to 21 ft-lbs. Good. Finally, let’s install the upper air duct and
make sure it’s connected to the fan. Secure it in place with the two plastic
clips and remember to attach the relay back on the air duct. Alright, now with our battery installed,
everything all connected, now we can go and install our trim pieces. Now remember, we have everything nice
and organized, so we’re going to put the seat bolts in, and then we’re going to put
each side on, and it’s all organized so we know exactly what order they go in. So let’s finish this up, starting with the
seats. So slide the seats in place and torque down each of the four bolts to 27 ft-lbs. Next, we can install the driver side trim. Remember to put the cargo light back,
and this snaps right in. Then push the trim into place and hit
around the edges to make sure the different sections of the panel click in. Good. Now, tighten down the chrome tie-down
bolt, the small black bolt, push the plastic clip in, and finally, tighten down the long silver
bolt. Perfect, now let’s do the other side. Get the trim in place and hit around the edges, Then tighten the chrome bolt, the small black bolt, push the plastic clip in place, tighten down the long silver bolt, and don’t forget about pushing the side
trim back into place. Now we can get the battery trim in, and
remember to push the plastic clips in each corner of the trim. That’s one. And that’s the other. Alright, so remember we broke the two
plastic trim clips that hold that in. Well, we want to replace them with some
nice new ones. These clips just slide and click into place. And now, just hit the trim down to secure
the trim. Then tighten the last two chrome tie-
down bolts, reconnect the hybrid battery safety plug
so we can start the car up, get the driver side bin in and tighten it
down, then get the two covers on, followed by the rear trim piece which
snaps in with a little pressure. Finally, get the large storage bin in. Then the trunk floor, and the privacy cover. Let’s put the seats up, and get the trunk floor mat in. Alright, and that is how you replace a bad
hybrid battery using a rebuild kit. And you just learned something that
many mechanics are afraid to even touch. Plus, we’ve saved $2500 by doing this
ourselves. Actually, we made $1000 because this car
is sold. And you can do the same exact thing, find
yourself a Prius with a bad hybrid battery, fix it up, and then sell it. It’s a win-win, you make some money and
the next owner gets a reliable car. Or maybe you already own a Prius and the
battery’s going bad, well now you know how to replace it
yourself to save money. And hopefully, the video was helpful, if it
was, remember to give it a thumbs up. And if you’re not a subscriber, consider
hitting that subscribe button for more how-to videos. Also, as always, all the tools and products
including the hybrid battery are linked in the description so you can
easily find them.

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