Motorcycle Bottom End Rebuild | Part 3 of 3: Final Assembly

This is Part 3 of the split cases, crank and crank bearing replacement video. Please refer to Parts 1 and 2 for the previous
procedures In Part 2 we installed the crank into
the right case half, and now we’re going to install the transmission. And it’s important to try do this as an
assembly, with your shift forks installed. Everything lined up. And we actually made this look easier
than it is, it actually can be kinda tricky. You want to make sure that everything rotates smoothly. You can tell that the gears are lined up
where they need to be. It won’t be possible to shift through the gears at this point until the other case half is on. But you should be able to tell that
everything is lined up. Now we’re going to get ready to install the other case half. And some machines have gaskets, other machines just require a liquid gasket. Here we’re using Yamabond Make sure your sealing surface is very clean before you start. Make sure you put sealant on both halves. Now we’re gonna go ahead and slide that
on and be really careful and make sure everything is lined up correctly Before you start pulling the crank
through. Make sure all the shafts are starting to fall into the bearings. You want to make sure the cases are parallel. We’re going to go ahead and install our crank puller/ installer back onto the crankshaft. Use the right pieces. Put the outer piece on. Thread the nut on. And as we tighten this, once again we want to make sure everything is parallel and the case halves are coming together. We’re going to make sure they’re parallel. We might need to
take a rubber mallet and tap the back. Just to make sure everything comes together nice and even. Now we can go ahead and put our bolts in. Here we’re just
illustrating how to tell if your bolt is the right length or not. As you put them in they should all stick out about the same before you tighten them. We’re going to go ahead and tighten them now and we’re going to use a criss cross pattern. To make sure there’s no warpage. You don’t want to develop a leak between your center cases. We’re working on the other side of the
case. We’re going to start installing our shift mechanism. We’ve put a little medium strength threadlocker on our star shift detent. Now we’re going to go to our, make sure our shift pawls are in there. The springs are all together. We want to install that as an assembly. Now we’re going to slide our shift shaft through. Make sure everything lines up. This is our kick-start idler gear. There’s a little washer on there, then we’re going to use our Tusk Circlip Pliers to install that circlip. We’re just going to use a screwdriver to seat that clip in the groove and then I’m going to move to the primary drive gear. There’s normally a spacer. Normally there’s multiple gears to either drive the water pump or power valve. Slide those on. Now we’re going to move on and put the outer clutch basket on. It’s our washer, our sleeve and our double bearing. We’re going to put our inner hub on. With our lock washer. And the nut. We’re going to use our Tusk Clutch Hub Holding Tool. And go ahead and torque our clutch hub on. Now we’re gonna bend up our lock washer. Now we’re gonna wedge our aluminum
washer back in there. So we can tighten up that primary gear. Don’t forget to remove the washer. Now it’s time for the inner clutch cover. Make sure everything lines up. There’s a water pump that needs to lineup on a gear. Sometimes you need to move things back and forth a little bit to get it to lineup correctly. We’re going to go ahead and install the bolts. Once again it’s always a good idea to go ahead and use a criss-cross pattern. Now it’s time for the clutch pushrod or lifter rod. And the clutch lifter itself with the thrust bearing. And then we’re going to start installing our clutch plates. We’re just going to go ahead and do it just as they came out. Then our pressure plate goes on. Put on our springs and our bolts. And this one’s going to go in a
criss-cross and gradually. Once again you want to make sure it’s nice and flat. We’re going to put our outer clutch cover on. Once again in a criss-cross pattern. Now we can go ahead and install in the
frame. We’re going to kind of jump ahead. We’re installing our stator plate with our K&L Impact Screwdriver making sure those are nice and snug. We need to put our clutch actuator arm back in. And it’s set screw. Now we’re going to install the flywheel. Using our Tusk Clutch Hub Holding Tool that also doubles as a flywheel holder. Tighten that nut up. We’ll install our ignition cover and that completes the bottom end.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *