Yamaha F225 Rebuild Pt 6: Timing Belt and Electrical | Yamaha F225 Flywheel Installation | Boats.net

Yamaha F225 Rebuild Pt 6: Timing Belt and Electrical | Yamaha F225 Flywheel Installation | Boats.net


Hello, John Talley here with Boats.net and if you’ve been following us long on this project, you know that we’ve
already completed the lower end as well as installing the heads on our 2004
yamaha F225. Today we’re just going to be focused on getting the electrical
harness back on as well as getting the new timing belt and getting the timing
set correctly. So let’s head it over to the table look at the different parts
that we’re going to use, and then we’ll get started. Well as you can tell from
the table, we’re reinstalling most of the equipment
that came off the motor to begin with, except for this. We’re gonna put on a new
timing belt. Now as far as the special tools, there will not be any required but
I will call out the standard tools that I’m using as I go along to make it
easier for your project to go forward. Well now that we’ve looked at our pile
of harness and one timing belt, let’s step over and start working on this
thing. So we’re going to start this process by
actually going backwards for a moment. The first step is we need to go ahead
and get our camshaft gears mounted, and to do that we need to hold the camshafts
still because they take right at 49 foot-pounds of torque– and of course we
can’t do that with the engine just sitting like it is and I don’t want to
put that kind of stress on the timing belt when I put it on. So what we’re
going to do is remove these covers. At that point, you’re gonna see on the
camshaft there’s an actual area to where you can put a wrench to hold it still.
Let me get these popped off real quick and then we’ll get those timing gears
put on. Let’s start by tapping in our dowel. Since we’re at it we’ll go
ahead and get both of them. So you actually have a 23 millimeter going down
to your camshaft, and then the top bolt is a 13 millimeter and we’re going to
take this to 43 foot-pounds. Yamaha actually wants you to replace these
gaskets every time you pull it off. I think that’s a little bit excessive,
they’re brand new. I’m just gonna add one little small dab of Yamabond back in
these four corners and pop it right back on there. I’m going to use this to run it
down but this is not what I’m gonna use to set the torque. I just want to get
them in there easily. Then we’ll get them torqued. Now what they want you to do here
is go around and tighten them to five-point-eight and then go back around
because there’s so much gasket material or rubber material to compress down it
won’t be even the first time around. Second time around will even everything
up. Now one more time. Let’s bring it around,
do the same thing to this one. Alright, 43 coming up. One more time. Next let’s go
ahead and get our throttle linkages in place. Alright this one is in the
correct position. That little mark right here is lined up at this point. The one
here we need to rotate clockwise to where it’s in position. And I’m just a
little bit off on the crank, I mean just a hair. So we’re gonna start by
temporarily putting on the flywheel and see if we can just bump that over. That’s it. Now let’s bring over this bank. That’s it. Now let’s get our belt on. Give it an amount of tension, it’ll start to
compress. Just takes a little while. Don’t expect it just to fly right over. There
we go. Now we’re getting ready to put on the mount for our stator, and if you’re
putting on a new block like I am, you need to transfer your dowels over.
Otherwise they’re not going to play well together. Next let’s get on the stator. And I
prefer to use a little bit of Loctite on these bolts but not the red we’re just
gonna go with the blue. Now let’s get in our Woodruff key and put on our flywheel. So we’re getting ready to torque this to a hundred seventy four foot
pounds, and you want to put a little bit of oil on your threads. I’m going to be
using a special tool that’s actually going to hold it here and here with a
long handle. If you don’t have one of these, and we can certainly sell you one,
but if I were you I would probably get me a couple of flat pieces of– I don’t
know, quarter-inch steel maybe a half inch wide– weld it together in a Y and
then put in two bolts to go into that location to hold it still. ‘Cause you’re going to need to get out to here because 174? That’s a lot. Now with that done, just to make sure
that we’re correct on our timing, let’s go ahead and spin the engine around once, make sure everything clears. Now a spark plug– the spark plugs are actually already
mounted so it’ll have a fair amount of pressure we have to overcome, but let’s
take it around once. Get my marks exactly where they were before. Now, before we go any
further, let’s go ahead and put our pointer back on and get it pointed to
top dead center. Next let’s bring in our arm for the throttle plates. Don’t
tighten these bottom ones down until we get this upper section because that’s
the critical point because we don’t want it to bind. So just do these hand tight
where we can still shift it around. Plus this has a little arrow on the outside.
Make sure, of course it’s going to be pointing up, but you want it on the
outside– not hidden on the inside. Now let’s get these tightened down. And since
we’re here now let’s get in this ground strap that goes from one head to the
other. Next let’s go ahead and get our
temperature sensors in place, and then we’re gonna lay over the harness, start
getting it bolted down, and hook it up. I’m not sure why Yamaha redesigned these
because they actually mount in the same way. Alright, with those in place, let’s
go ahead and get our voltage regulator rectifier. So it actually resides behind
the harness and its ground goes here, and then the harness ground actually has
two points here and here. It’s got our ground in. So with that in place, let’s go
ahead and bring it over our main harness and then start laying it in. We’ll start
by just getting in these top bolts and leave them loose, and then we’ll go down,
put in the rest, and then install the ones up top for the trough. When you’re
doing this, make sure you’ve got these wires pulled through and just lay it
into place here. Like that. So that’s bolts down here at the bottom,
here, here, here, here and then we’ll have three more up there at the top. The bolts
that hold this section have an extra washer right there and they’re this length.
The ones up top are just a little bit longer with a single washer. Let’s do our two grounds that come off
the main harness. One of them goes right here and the second one goes through
here right to this point. Next, there’s a bracket lays in like this. Those are
gonna go there. I guess we can go ahead and connect these. Go ahead and zip-tie
those in back up. There we go. A couple little channels that they actually seat
into. Alright, at this point let’s go and get
the starter up there and we want to hold this a little bit in as we bring it in
because we want it to route just behind it. I missed a ground. This one right here needs to go behind that. So let’s back
this off for a second and there should be enough leeway for me to get it in
there. Now let’s get that back in place. Need to bring that wire off of the
starter down to this point. Just plug and play right here, two bullet
connectors. Now let’s go ahead and get the coil packs bolted back down.
Alright we’ve got a ground wire up in place, don’t forget about it. Now let’s
drop in our coil triggers. And since we’re here. I’m just checking
over my coil wires making sure they’re not cracked anywhere on the boots. I
still look okay. When you’re pushing these on, you can feel them I’d actually
clip in, then you know you’ve pushed it far enough. Push them straight so they’ll I actually
engage like that. What we’re doing here is just re-taping
some of the wires where oil and gas has gotten in there and caused it to release.
When you’re doing this make sure you use some good tape to do it. The 3M brand
it’s probably the best out there and it’ll hold on the longest. Tough stuff.
Alright guys, that pretty much wraps up this particular video. At this point, I’m
gonna go ahead and get started on the fuel system. But once again, that’ll be in
an upcoming video. And if you’d like to see that, why don’t you go ahead and hit
that subscribe button that way you could be notified when we actually release it.
And if you have any questions or comments about what I’ve done so far,
why don’t you leave in the section below and I’ll do my best to answer them. Listen we
just want to say thank you for shopping here with us at Boats.net and we will
see you in the next video. Y’all have a great day.

3 thoughts on “Yamaha F225 Rebuild Pt 6: Timing Belt and Electrical | Yamaha F225 Flywheel Installation | Boats.net

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